Skip to content

Independent referral service: calls connect you with participating Pennsylvania electricians. How it works

Pennsylvania Electricians
Electrician fishing new cable through an opening in a plaster wall in an older Pennsylvania house

Old wiring and rewiring

House Rewiring and Electrical Wiring in Pennsylvania

Knob-and-tube, cloth-insulated, aluminum, and damaged wiring in older Pennsylvania homes. How to tell what you have, when partial or full rewiring makes sense, and what it costs.

Get Connected With an Electrician

2 Have your ZIP code ready and call

Call About Wiring(717) 409-6059
  • Free referral, no obligation to hire
  • Routed to a participating independent electrician near you
  • Availability varies by ZIP code and time of day

Last updated: 2026-10-11

Pennsylvania Electricians is an independent contractor-referral service that connects Pennsylvania homeowners, landlords, and property managers with participating independent electricians. This page covers house rewiring and wiring repair: the older wiring types found in Pennsylvania homes, the problems with each, when to rewire part or all of a house, and what drives the cost.

Older wiring types in Pennsylvania homes

Pennsylvania has some of the oldest housing in the country. In Reading, 57 percent of homes were built before 1940, in Lancaster 54 percent, in York 49 percent, and in Harrisburg 43 percent (U.S. Census Bureau, ACS 2020–2024). Most have been partly updated, so one house can have several generations of wiring:

  • Knob-and-tube (common before about 1940): individual wires on porcelain knobs and through porcelain tubes. It has no ground, the cloth-and-rubber insulation becomes brittle, and it's designed to shed heat into open air, so it shouldn't be buried in insulation.
  • Cloth-sheathed cable (roughly the 1930s through 1960s): often ungrounded, with insulation that cracks when disturbed.
  • Aluminum branch wiring (some homes wired from 1965 to the mid-1970s): CPSC research found these homes were 55 times more likely to have a connection reach "fire hazard conditions" than copper-wired homes.
  • Ungrounded circuits behind two-prong outlets, and later additions spliced into older wiring without boxes.

Signs your wiring needs attention

  • Cloth-covered wire or porcelain knobs visible in the basement or attic
  • Two-prong outlets throughout the house
  • Outlets, switches, or cover plates that are warm or discolored
  • Lights that flicker or dim; frequent trips or blown fuses
  • A burning-plastic smell at outlets (CPSC lists this as a warning sign with aluminum wiring)
  • Brittle, cracked, or chewed insulation where wiring is visible
  • A home inspector, insurer, or lender that has flagged the wiring

Partial or full rewire?

Rewiring doesn't have to be all at once. Many Pennsylvania homeowners rewire in stages: the kitchen and bathrooms during a remodel, then bedrooms, with the panel and service upgraded first so new circuits have somewhere to go. An electrician can tell you which circuits are still on original wiring and which matter most.

A full rewire usually makes sense when most of the house is still on knob-and-tube or brittle cloth wiring, when walls are already open for a renovation, or when an insurer requires it. For aluminum branch wiring, CPSC lists permanent repairs: rewiring with copper, or attaching copper "pigtails" with connectors designed for the purpose (such as COPALUM crimps or AlumiConn connectors) at every connection. Ordinary twist-on connectors aren't a fix.

Plaster, permits, and insurance

Fishing new cable through plaster walls is slower than drywall, and patching plaster costs more, so ask who handles patching. Rewiring is permitted work under the Pennsylvania Uniform Construction Code; the permit and inspection run through your municipality. Some insurers ask about or limit coverage for homes with active knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring, so it's worth asking your insurer before you buy or renovate. See when to rewire an older home.

When to call an electrician about wiring

  • You've found knob-and-tube, cloth-insulated, or aluminum branch wiring
  • You're about to open walls for a renovation or add insulation in walls or the attic
  • Outlets or switches are warm, discolored, or smell like burning plastic
  • Your insurer, lender, or home inspector has flagged the wiring
  • You're buying an older home and want to know what you're getting
  • There's damage from rodents, water, or past DIY work

What rewiring costs

Angi puts whole-house rewiring at about $2 to $4 per square foot for materials and labor: $3,000 to $6,000 for a 1,500-square-foot home and $4,000 to $8,000 for 2,000 square feet. Opening and repairing walls adds about $4 to $8 per square foot of wall, and plaster costs more to patch than drywall. Older homes often need a panel upgrade at the same time. See the Pennsylvania cost guide.

  • Square footage and number of floors
  • Plaster and lath versus drywall, and access from the basement and attic
  • Partial versus full rewire
  • Panel or service upgrade at the same time
  • Permits and inspections
  • Wall and ceiling patching and painting
Old knob-and-tube wiring with porcelain insulators running along wooden joists in a Pennsylvania basement ceiling

How to plan a rewire

  1. Get the wiring assessed before deciding: what's original, what's been updated, and what's in use.
  2. Rewire before you renovate or insulate; it's cheaper when walls are open.
  3. Upgrade the panel first if the service is 60 or 100 amps and you're adding load.
  4. Ask your insurer what they require.
  5. Plan for patching: who does it, and whether it's in the price.

Questions to ask about rewiring

  • How much of the house is still on original wiring, and is any of it knob-and-tube or aluminum?
  • Can this be done in phases, and in what order?
  • How will you route new cable through plaster walls, and who patches?
  • Does the price include the permit, inspection, and any panel work?
  • Pennsylvania has no statewide electrician license. Does my municipality require one for this work, and what's your license number if so? What's your PAHIC registration number?

Related electrical guides

Straight answers

What you can safely do vs. when to call

The safe homeowner steps are short on purpose. Anything past them, including opening the panel cover, belongs to an electrician.

SituationSafe for you to doCall an electricianCall 911 or the utility first
A breaker tripped onceUnplug what was running, then switch the breaker fully off and back on one timeIt trips again, or won't stay onIt sparks, smokes, or smells hot
An outlet stopped workingLook for a tripped GFCI outlet nearby and press its reset button onceStill dead, or several outlets are outScorch marks with smoke or flame
Lights flicker or dimCheck that the bulb is snug and the right typeSeveral rooms flicker, or lights dim when appliances startFlicker with burning smell or buzzing at the panel
Warm or discolored outlet, switch, or cover plateStop using it and unplug anything plugged inAlways: heat means a bad connectionBurning smell, smoke, or melting
Panel is hot, buzzing, or cracklingStay back; keep the area clearRight awaySmoke, sparks, or a burning smell
Downed line, damaged meter, or water reached outlets or the panelStay away and keep others awayAfter the utility has made it safeAlways: call 911 and Met-Ed, PPL, or your utility

General guidance only, based on homeowner safety material from the Electrical Safety Foundation International. It is not a diagnosis. If something seems dangerous, treat it as dangerous.

What to expect

What an electrician visit usually involves

Every house and every problem is different. These are the stages most residential electrical jobs go through.

  1. You describe the problem

    What stopped working, when it started, whether a breaker trips or a fuse blows, any warmth, buzzing, flicker, or burning smell, and roughly how old the house and panel are. That helps the electrician come prepared, but no one can diagnose an electrical problem from symptoms alone.

  2. On-site diagnosis

    The electrician tests the affected circuits and devices, looks at the panel and the wiring they can reach, and works out whether the cause is one failed part, an overloaded circuit, a wiring fault, or something bigger.

  3. A written scope and price

    Before work starts, ask for the scope, price, and whether a permit is needed in writing. Under Pennsylvania's Home Improvement Consumer Protection Act, home improvement contracts over $500 must be in writing.

  4. The repair or upgrade

    Small repairs are often finished on the first visit. Panel replacements and service upgrades usually need a permit, a scheduled power shutoff, and coordination with the utility (Met-Ed, PPL, or your local utility) to disconnect and reconnect the meter.

  5. Inspection where required

    Work done under a permit is inspected under the Pennsylvania Uniform Construction Code, by the municipality's code office or a third-party inspection agency it uses. Keep the permit and inspection paperwork with your house records.

How the referral works

How our contractor-matching service works

  1. You call the number on this site

    Have the property's address or ZIP code ready, plus a short description: what isn't working, whether a breaker keeps tripping, and anything you've seen, heard, or smelled.

  2. Your call is routed to a participating electrician

    Your call is connected with a participating independent electrician or electrical contractor who serves your area, if one is available. We do not send anyone ourselves.

  3. You deal with that electrician directly

    The electrician diagnoses the problem, quotes the job, and does any work you agree to under their own business name, license where one is required, and insurance. You decide whether to hire them; there is no obligation.

Good to know: availability depends on which participating electricians cover your ZIP code, and not every electrician takes every kind of job. Pennsylvania has no statewide electrician license, so ask whether your municipality requires one, for their PA Home Improvement Contractor (PAHIC) registration number, proof of insurance, and a written price. Our hiring checklist covers what to ask.

Connect With an Electrician About Your Wiring

Call and we will try to connect you with a participating independent electrician who serves your area.

Questions

House Rewiring questions

Does knob-and-tube wiring have to be replaced?

Not automatically, but it's old, ungrounded, and not designed to be covered with insulation, and some insurers limit coverage for it. Have an electrician assess how much is still live and in what condition, and plan to replace it before insulating or remodeling.

How much does it cost to rewire a house in Pennsylvania?

Angi puts rewiring at about $2 to $4 per square foot, or $3,000 to $6,000 for a 1,500-square-foot home, plus about $4 to $8 per square foot of wall for repairs. Plaster walls and panel upgrades, both common in older Pennsylvania homes, push costs up.

Is aluminum wiring dangerous?

CPSC research found homes with aluminum branch wiring were 55 times more likely to have a connection reach fire-hazard conditions than copper-wired homes. CPSC's permanent repairs are rewiring or special copper pigtail connectors at every connection.

Do I need a permit to rewire my house?

Yes. Rewiring is permitted work under the Pennsylvania Uniform Construction Code, inspected by your municipality or its third-party agency. The electrician normally pulls the permit.

Can I live in the house during a rewire?

Usually, yes. Electricians typically work circuit by circuit so power is off in parts of the house at a time. Ask how long each area will be without power.

Call (717) 409-6059 · Electrical Help